Yes as I say in the opening post I only need it to disengage when it is unloaded. Because the bike is standing still when i am going to roll it back to get it out of my basement or off the transport i'm on.
That would take up even more space than adding a additional clutch to disengage the...
My goal is to make my DIY ebike be able to roll backwards freely when the motor is not powered. On most crank / middrive ebikes there is a sprag clutch between the motor drive and the crank so one does not cause drag for the other. But this causes the motor to drag when trying to roll the bike...
All types of sprag overrunning clutches have some sort of spring to keep the rollers or sprags in contact with the running surfaces so they can engage and wedge to lock the two surfaces together when turning in the locking direction. But is there any kind of sprag clutch where you can...
The circular grove is what i mean when i say "collar" The front taper is there to give the collet support in front of the "circular groove" so you can for example clamp tools that is not sticking verry far into the collet.
As i said if you push the collet from the rear to release it there is no...
The reason for the front taper is because of the collar so you are able to pull the collet out from the front because the ER collets has a semi locking taper that needs to be pullet out with force to release. If it had been pushed in from the front, and pushed out from the back it would not need...
No it does not. A continuous OD taper along the whole clamping length works just fine to uniformly compress the collet. As demonstrated by morse taper collets. And it works even better like the design in the opening post shows pushing it into the taper rather than pulling it because then the...
That is what i was writing about the third style of collet. But this flexing to become parallell does require the part that is being held is supporting the ID the whole length of the gripping section of the collet. While a ER style collet will remain mostly parallell even if it is only supported...
The problem is that you have to close the slots in order for the collet to not be 3 separate pieces. So if you close the 3 slots in one end, and keep them open in the other the collet will just be able to clamp on the end with the open slots, and with a simple taper along the whole OD of the...
If you want to finish the ID before slitting it you would have to make an expanding lapping / grinding arbor, while if you slit it first you can use a fixed size lapping hex and use the collet to tighten it as you grind away material. So slitting it before finishing the ID seams like the...
I want to lap/grind the collet after hardening to get a good surface finish and get rid of any distortion from heat treatment, and that plus clamping on a hex that might vary slightly in size and it will slide trough the collet kind of like in a swiss lathe is why i want the flats to remain...
If i have a collet that has a tapered outside to get pushed into a smaller size and a hex hole inside of it and i want the hex to uniformly shrink along the whole collet (so the walls of the hex stays parallell from one end to the other) do i need to add 12 slots or can i do it with just 6 slots...
That is a really good idea. Thank you. And i guess the foam would give some extra insulation from the radiative heat that can cross the vacuum space between the two tanks as a bonus. But expanding foam *expands* and create a lot of force in an enclosed space from what i have heard. Don't i run...
The idea should be pretty simple to understand. I want 2 tanks, one inside the other with the inner one pressurized and the outer one having a vacuum for thermal isolation. And I'm asking how i can construct this with limited access to cheap sheet metal material thicknesses, and limited slip...