Shallow water wave approximation

In summary, the expression for group velocity of a dispersive wave can be simplified for shallow waves by using the approximation ##hk \ll 1## and neglecting higher order terms in the Taylor series expansion of ##1/\sinh(2kh)##. This results in the simplified expression of ##c_g = c##. The use of a Taylor expansion is a mathematical approximation and does not have a physical reasoning behind it.
  • #1
tomwilliam2
117
2
I'm working through a solved problem in a fluid mechanics textbook. In it, the group velocity of a dispersive wave is calculated as:
$$c_g = \frac{1}{2}c\left (1 + 2kh\ \text{cosech} (2kh) \right)$$

Where k is the angular wavenumber, and h is the depth of the water, which is fine. Now for shallow waves, we assume that $$kh \ll 1$$, which we can use to simplify the last part of the expression above:

$$\text{cosech} (2kh) = \frac{1}{\sinh(2kh)}=\frac{2}{e^{2kh}-e^{-2kh}} \approx \frac{2}{1+2kh-(1-2kh)}$$

resulting in $$c_g = c$$.

I don't really understand how the $$1/\sinh(2kh)$$ in exponential form is approximated in the manner written above...how does:
$$e^{2kh}=1+2kh$$
Is this a mathematical approximation or is there some physical reasoning behind it?
Thanks in advance
 
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  • #2
tomwilliam2 said:
I don't really understand how the $$1/\sinh(2kh)$$ in exponential form is approximated in the manner written above...how does:
$$e^{2kh}=1+2kh$$
Is this a mathematical approximation or is there some physical reasoning behind it?

It's an approximation. If kh<<1 then we can discard all of the terms of the series expansion except the first two.
 
  • #3
Thanks!
Is it a Taylor expansion? I've managed to get this far in my self-study of physics without being able to expand a constant function (although I know how to expand a function of a variable around a point)...
 
  • #4
Thats right it is a Taylor expansion about 0 . What is a 'constant function'?
I was hoping this discussion would be about the physics of shallow water waves! :cool:
 
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  • #5
Yes it is a Taylor expansion.

I'm not sure why you are bothered about something being a constant, but you can think of this as being the Taylor expansion of ##e^x## where ##x## iis a variable, and then substitude in the particular value of ##x = 2kh##.
 
  • #6
Thanks

Ok, thanks for all the replies. On some of the points:

A constant function: well I'm studying maths and physics without the benefit of a lecturer or tutor, so I sometimes get the terminology wrong. If you have a function f(x) = constant...can this not be described as a function despite being constant?

Why I can do the expansion with a variable, but not a constant: I've learned the Taylor series expansion for $$e^x$$ around the point zero, and I can see how to do this (and that in many cases the higher orders can be neglected (not sure under exactly which conditions). However, in this expression there is no variable so I'm not sure how the expansion goes...if I can just substitute $$x=2kh$$ then that's great.

Supposed to be about shallow waves: well I wasn't sure whether this query was based on some element of fluid mechanics that I was unaware of, or whether it was a standard mathematical approximation. It turned out to be the latter, but I have many more questions about dispersive waves which I will no doubt come back with!
Thanks again
 
  • #7
tomwilliam2 said:
Why I can do the expansion with a variable, but not a constant

You can do both. The Taylor series expansion ##e^x = 1 + x + x^2/2! + \cdots## is valid for all values of ##x##, so in that sense you can think of ##x## as a variable.

But if it is true for all values of ##x##, it is also true for any particular value that you want to use. If ##x = 0.1## for example you can say ##e^{0.1} = 1 + 0.1 + (0.1)^2/2! + \cdots## and you would probably call ##0.1## a "constant".

In your original question, remember the formulas are true for any values of ##h## and '##k##, so long as ##hk \ll 1##, so in that sense ##h## amd ##k## are "variables" not "constants". But if you are thinking about one particular wave, i.e. one particular value of ##h## and ##k## and so you think ##hk## is a 'constant', that doesn't make any difference.

The idea of a "constant function" ##f(x) = c## is a bit different. The value of ##f(x)## is constant, but ##x## is still a variable. Of course the Taylor series of ##f(x) = c## is just ##c##, and it doesn't involve ##x## at all (and it's not particularly useful either!)
 

FAQ: Shallow water wave approximation

What is the shallow water wave approximation?

The shallow water wave approximation is a simplification of the equations that govern the behavior of waves in a body of water. It assumes that the depth of the water is much smaller than the wavelength of the wave, and that the velocity of the wave is much smaller than the velocity of gravity. This allows for a simpler and more manageable set of equations to describe the behavior of shallow water waves.

When is the shallow water wave approximation applicable?

The shallow water wave approximation is applicable in situations where the depth of the water is less than half of the wavelength of the wave. This is commonly seen in coastal regions, bays, and estuaries, where the water is relatively shallow compared to the open ocean.

What are the limitations of the shallow water wave approximation?

The shallow water wave approximation is limited to describing waves with small amplitudes and short wavelengths. It also does not account for factors such as wave breaking and energy dissipation, which may be important in certain scenarios. Additionally, it is not suitable for describing deep water waves or waves in regions with steep bathymetry.

How is the shallow water wave approximation derived?

The shallow water wave approximation is derived by simplifying the Navier-Stokes equations, which are the fundamental equations describing fluid motion. This involves making certain assumptions, such as neglecting viscosity and assuming a constant water depth. The resulting equations are known as the shallow water wave equations.

What are some practical applications of the shallow water wave approximation?

The shallow water wave approximation is used in a variety of practical applications, such as predicting wave heights and currents in coastal regions, designing coastal structures and harbors, and studying the effects of tsunamis and storm surges. It is also used in ocean and weather forecasting models to simulate the behavior of waves in shallow water regions.

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