3D Printed Metal Custom Tool Request

[YoshiMoshi]

Does anyone on here have a 3D printer for metal? I'm looking to get a custom made socket wrench fabricated for 10 mm bolts or nuts. I'm looking for one that is extremely low profile. I don't care about the drive style (1/4", 1/2", 3/4", 1", external hex etc).

The smallest mass produced one I could find was 3/8" drive at 17.3 mm in overall length
https://shop.snapon.com/product/Low...ic-10-mm-Flank-Drive-Low-Profile-Socket/RFM10
This however would require 3/8 drive ratchet or lever adding to the overall length above the nut or bolt.

The used to make a smaller on that was a twist socket that would damage a good nut or bolt
https://shop.snapon.com/product/Ext...nal-Drive-Hex-Head-Slim-Twist-Socket/110STSY2
That is only 9.5 mm in overall length, and it's a 5/8" external hex driven. Meaning I can just use a box end wrench that is 5/8", so the overall length above the bolt or nut would be 9.5 mm. I called them and asked them if they had something similar to this that wasn't a twist socket, and they said they don't.

I found a Wera socket whose overall length is 18 mm.

It is driven by a 1/4" external hex. So I could use a box end wrench to rotate it. This seems to be the smallest mass produced profile tool I could find for a non-damaged 10 mm bolt or nut, requiring only 18 mm above the nut or bolt.

This won't work for my application. I'm trying to remove a bolt on a transmission pan that is right up against the subframe with very little clearance. 18 mm is to large. I can't find something smaller. Can someone with a 3D printer make a smaller 10 mm socket? Not sure how much this would cost. Or if someone has gone to a professional company that manufacturers custom tools, how much would something like this cost? This is merely out of convenience for me. I could always go through the hassle of undoing one of the mounts and jack it up. Much faster if I can just get a slimer profile socket. So if fabrication of a smaller socket will cost way to much money, then it's not worth it to me.

Please and thanks.

 

[jrmichler]

I have solved similar problems by modifying purchased sockets. The socket on the left was modified for an application similar to yours. It has two flats ground so that it could be turned using an open end wrench. It think it was for removing a bellhousing that was up tight against the firewall. The socket on the right was turned down to fit a nut inside a tight hole.

 

[Averagesupernova]

Is there a reason you can't use a box end wrench or gear wrench? I assume there's a lip on the transmission pan that prevents clearance? How about an offset box end?
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Otherwise @jrmichler has the right idea. Modify an existing socket. If you're going to start grinding on one you can also grind it more shallow to help with clearance.

 

[YoshiMoshi]

There is indeed a lip on the pan. I remember trying an offset box end wrench before and the walls of the box end were to thick. But I guess it could be one option. Measure the clearance between the head of the bolt and lip on the pan, and find a 10 mm offset box end wrench whose walls would be thin enough.

 

[Averagesupernova]

There is indeed a lip on the pan. I remember trying an offset box end wrench before and the walls of the box end were to thick. But I guess it could be one option. Measure the clearance between the head of the bolt and lip on the pan, and find a 10 mm offset box end wrench whose walls would be thin enough.

It does seem that a lot of the offset box wrenched I've seen do have a thick wall. They are likely inexpensive wrenches worth the risk of ruining one by grinding them smaller. But I would modify a socket ahead of modifying an offset box wrench.

 

[Dullard]

I'm not 100% certain that I understand where your interference is, but a 'crow's foot' has gotten me out of many tight spots:

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...a7a0602980a016a5195f02815417ac12&gclsrc=3p.ds

 

[berkeman]

Can you maybe just weld a hex nut on the top end of a low-profile socket, where the ID of the hex nut matches the OD of the socket? You might need to clean the threads out some inside the nut to get a good friction fit on the socket body before tack-welding it on...

EDIT -- I suppose you could also just lay the nut on top of the socket and tack weld it to the end; it doesn't have to friction fit over the end of the socket. Use a thin hex nut to give you more clearance as well...