In the shadow of the most notorious rock wall in the Swiss Alps, John Harlin III contemplates the climb of his life — the one that claimed his father 40 years ago.
One rope length from the White Spider, the last great defiance on the mountain wall that is one of the world’s deadliest, the 7 mm fixed line broke. John Harlin II, the first American to climb the legendary North Face of the Eiger in the Swiss Alps four years earlier, fell 4,000 feet into the void.
A short time later his nine-year-old son, Johnny, heard the news from his sobbing mother. It was news he couldn’t fathom. His father was among the world’s greatest climbers, a pioneer of straight-up routes, a man almost mythically at home in the vertical world.
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The Eiger is a mountain located in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland. It stands at 13,020 feet and is known for its steep and treacherous North Face, which has earned the nickname "Wall of Death." The Eiger is considered a challenging climb due to its unpredictable weather conditions, high altitude, and technical difficulties such as loose rocks and ice.
Richard Bangs is an adventure travel pioneer and journalist who has explored and documented some of the world's most challenging environments. He chose to climb the Eiger as a personal challenge and to document the experience for National Geographic. He also wanted to pay tribute to the first successful ascent of the Eiger in 1938 by a team of Swiss climbers.
The time it takes to climb the Eiger varies depending on the route and the climber's skill level. The average time for an experienced climber to reach the summit is about 10-12 hours. However, it can take up to several days for less experienced climbers or those facing challenging weather conditions.
Climbing the Eiger comes with a high level of risk due to its steep and exposed terrain. Some of the dangers include rockfall, avalanches, extreme weather conditions, and altitude sickness. The North Face of the Eiger is also known for its unpredictable and difficult-to-navigate ice and snow conditions.
Climbers should have a strong foundation of mountaineering skills, including rock and ice climbing, as well as experience with high-altitude climbs. Physical conditioning and training are also essential, as well as having the proper equipment and gear. It's also crucial for climbers to research and understand the route they will be taking and to have a backup plan in case of unexpected challenges.