Converting from mag to electronic

  • Thread starter wolram
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In summary, the people who have had success with rebuilding their original Lucas type Kif mags usually fit them with a manual advance type jy16a mag. The people who have had problems with them usually have to go to an electronic conversion.
  • #1
wolram
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Ok magnetoes are fine buit expensive to keep in A1 condition, so i want to convert to electronic, i have the means to manufacture the body to hold the new mechanism, and guess i can tailor it to fit some prop trigger mechanism
for the LT, the problem is a control for maping the required advance/retard,
i am quite niffty with a soldering iron, so i think i could build the electronics,
but how do i go about maping it to the engine?
 
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  • #2
This is for a single cylinder engine
 
  • #3
wolram said:
This is for a single cylinder engine

Any expanded Blue Prints of the Engine?

Model:
Type:
Year:
Spects:
 
  • #4
So you're first hurdle would be to get some kind of cam sensor to dictate the firing...right? It's been a while since I have dealt with this stuff. For a single cylinder, is it really that beneficial to give yourself a lead/retard on the firing?
 
  • #5
FredGarvin said:
So you're first hurdle would be to get some kind of cam sensor to dictate the firing...right? It's been a while since I have dealt with this stuff. For a single cylinder, is it really that beneficial to give yourself a lead/retard on the firing?
It sure is for cold starting Fred, and performance of course, i have several ways i could go,manual advance /retard mag, Points/coil, electronic.
If i can find an electronic pick up i can make an adapter housing drive shaft ect, the electronics seem simple, apart from the advance/retard, i think i need some sort of feed back to the circuit ie engine rpm but that could come from the pick up i think, or maybe i could buy a (black box) off the shelf,
all very much up in the air at the minute, i could buy a ready made convertion but that comes to 500 UK+.
 
  • #6
You would have to vary the advance/retard based on throttle position as well as engine RPM I would think. Back when I worked in automotive powertrain, I remember quite a few parameters were involved in the calculations the engine PCM would do to adjust it. I think that RPM would be the bare minimum if your load increases steadily with RPM. If not, I think you'd have to work in throttle position as well.
 
  • #8
This site is akin to what i will
try to make, it seems all i need for the trigger is an hall effect sensor, this could be possitioned to pick up on some rotating
engine part, i think i will need an rpm sensor (trigger) and a electronic vacuum sensor for best results.

http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/tech03061700.html

Mapping the curve is still the headache, this site says 1 degree per 100 rpm
for this bike.

The multi spark option ie the plug fires several times sounds good .
 
  • #9
I know cam sensors are indeed hall effect sensors on larger engines.

I'm going to have to do some reading here.
 
  • #10
Intuitive said:
Any expanded Blue Prints of the Engine?

Model:
Type:
Year:
Spects:

Sorry Intuitive i missed this post.

Model: velocette
Type: MAC
Year: 1960
cc: 349
Compression ratio: 6.75 to one
Carburetter: 15/16 Amal
Electrics: 6v
 
  • #11
Ah yes, a Velocette, have your tried posting this on the "Brit Bike Forum"?
Cheers,
RG500
 
  • #12
wolram said:
Sorry Intuitive i missed this post.

Model: velocette
Type: MAC
Year: 1960
cc: 349
Compression ratio: 6.75 to one
Carburetter: 15/16 Amal
Electrics: 6v

Hi Wolram.

What's the Stator count on your Magneto?

I have seen ones with 4 Stators and some up to 10 Stators on the Stator Ring.

Are you using a rebuilt original Magneto or are you using a Modern cross referenced Magneto?
 
  • #13
Intuitive said:
Hi Wolram.

What's the Stator count on your Magneto?

I have seen ones with 4 Stators and some up to 10 Stators on the Stator Ring.

Are you using a rebuilt original Magneto or are you using a Modern cross referenced Magneto?

It looks like the original mag, i have asked around, and it seems the auto
advance on these lucas type kif mags have always had problems, the auto advance is type jy16a, and most tend to fit a mag with manual advance.

I have not taken the mag apart, as after reading 10s of peoples problems
with this mag, i decided it would be best to go electronic.
 
  • #14
RG500 said:
Ah yes, a Velocette, have your tried posting this on the "Brit Bike Forum"?
Cheers,
RG500

I just spent an enjoyable hour on that forum, great place RG500:smile:
 

FAQ: Converting from mag to electronic

What is the difference between magnetic and electronic conversion?

The main difference between magnetic and electronic conversion is the method of data storage. Magnetic conversion uses magnetic tapes or disks to store data, while electronic conversion uses electronic devices such as flash drives or hard drives.

Why should I consider converting from mag to electronic?

Converting from mag to electronic offers several benefits, such as increased storage capacity, faster access to data, and easier data sharing. It also reduces the risk of data loss due to magnetic media deterioration.

Can all types of data be converted from mag to electronic?

Yes, most types of data can be converted from magnetic to electronic format. However, some types of data, such as old or damaged magnetic tapes, may require specialized equipment or techniques for conversion.

How do I convert from mag to electronic?

The process of converting from mag to electronic involves transferring the data from the magnetic media to the electronic device using a conversion tool or software. The exact steps may vary depending on the type and condition of the magnetic media.

Is it possible to convert back from electronic to mag?

Yes, it is possible to convert from electronic to magnetic format. However, the conversion may result in some loss of data or quality, and it may not be feasible for all types of electronic media.

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