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So, more torque then? Hmm... I'm going to need another beer first.Proton Soup said:looks like that nut just below the removable stop screws the whole valve stem out.
http://www.doityourself.com/icat/kholersterlhotstem
So, more torque then? Hmm... I'm going to need another beer first.Proton Soup said:looks like that nut just below the removable stop screws the whole valve stem out.
http://www.doityourself.com/icat/kholersterlhotstem
russ_watters said:So, more torque then? Hmm... I'm going to need another beer first.
russ_watters said:So, more torque then? Hmm... I'm going to need another beer first.
Proton Soup said:and who knows, maybe the thread is lefty?
Moonbear said:That part I can't remember from the last time I fixed a faucet. It is possible that they are threaded in reverse, in which case it's now extra-tight. But hey, maybe that's why it stopped dripping now.
Proton Soup said:it's also possible that one is threaded one way, and the other opposite. kind of like bicycle pedals.
lisab said:I can't help with the plumbing, but if it's the drip-drip-drip that's driving you crazy, I have a short-term solution.
Try running a string or yarn from the faucet down to the drain. Then the water will run down the thread - at least you won't hear the drip. Pre-wet it so the water will adhere better.
Is that for the hot water? It doesn't look old enough to be permanently stuck, but it's possible it will never budge. You can try some different chemicals on it. PB Blaster works pretty well. You can also try a breaker bar - just make sure all the force is supplying torque instead of prying the entire faucet one way or the other. It's going to be really hard to break the pipe if you're just applying rotational torque.russ_watters said:That's the one I got a nut driver over and applied a bunch of torque to. I heard some creaking, but it didn't break loose - I'm not even sure it is supposed to.
Evo said:I repaired/replaced ALL of the plumbing in my old house! I'm actually really good!
I can even tear out a tile wall in the shower and replace pipe and replace the drywall and re-tile. I had a neat little tile scribe to cut the tiles to fit.
Don't let me near electrical wiring though. Even though my dad was an electrical engineer and showed me how to do household wiring, I have a fear of electrical wiring.
BobG said:Personally, if it stopped dripping then I'd quite messing with it.
Yes, that's the approach I took. It's still partially disassembled, but I'm not doing anything more with it.BobG said:Personally, if it stopped dripping then I'd quite messing with it.
I wish it weren't just faucets.Integral said:Listen to Moonbear she has it nailed.
I think he was worried about breaking something so he couldn't turn the water back on without it flooding...in case it turned into a bigger project that required digging into the shower wall to get to the plumbing.Russ if the water is off to the faucet how could you flood anything?
Watch out for the brass nuts they are easily damaged.
Is there a monkey involved? In that case a monkey wrench might be an appropriate choice of tools.Moonbear said:Am I the only one who sees the joke in this remark?
I was joking around a little - my primary concern was breaking a pipe or solder joint. If it starts leaking again, I'll buy a valve stem before doing anything else. Once I have that part, I should be able to see how to get the existing one out. I was at Lowes today and they didn't seem to have one for my faucet, but they were only like $10, so not a big deal even if I just end up using it as an instruction manual.Integral said:Russ if the water is off to the faucet how could you flood anything?
Integral said:Watch out for the brass nuts they are easily damaged.
Moonbear said:Am I the only one who sees the joke in this remark?
Art said:On a somewhat related subject isn't there a part of chaos theory that says if you know the time intervals of 9 drips of water you can accurately predict the tenth??
Redbelly98 said:Hey, this could go in the "What's in your man-bag" thread.
Your girlfriend might appreciate it.russ_watters said:I don't really want to have a freely spinning knob, but I might have to live with it.
ozgurakkas said:Call kohler.
Order a new piece
When it arrives,
First turn the water supply off.
Open a faucet so you can take the water pressure out inside the pipe.
Go back to the faucet.
Take out the nut at the top of the handle.
Take the inner part out. Be easy...
Then take the new one and replace with the old part.
Make sure new piece placed in correctly.
Put the nut back and tight it.
Turn on the water supply slowly.
Check for leaks.
Hopefully there is no leak.
Also calling a licenced plumber to do this procedure will make your life easy.
Good luck
BobG said:What is wrong with you?!
A plumber is what you call halfway through the repair when the water level in the basement is halfway up the basement stairs! And then you tell him its your daughter's house or girlfriend's house.
I found the reference I was referring to and it's actually if you know 3 consecutive time intervals then you can predict the fourth, and if you could measure these time intervals exactly you could predict the entire future of the system but as exact measurement is impossible this can't be done. If the initial measurement was made to 10 decimal places then each predicted step drops a decimal place so after 10 drops you can no longer make a prediction. This was discovered in 1978 by some grad students at the University of California.BobG said:You might be able to tell the temperature. You'd have to figure out the expansion/contraction for the different parts, but the gap allowing the water to drip should change with temperature.
In practice, I guess you could just chart the temperature vs drip rate over a period of time, but since everything is going to be pretty close to room temperature, you probably won't see a huge variation.
I suggest turning off heat to the house. That will create a bigger variation in temperature.
russ_watters said:I was joking around a little - my primary concern was breaking a pipe or solder joint. If it starts leaking again, I'll buy a valve stem before doing anything else. Once I have that part, I should be able to see how to get the existing one out. I was at Lowes today and they didn't seem to have one for my faucet, but they were only like $10, so not a big deal even if I just end up using it as an instruction manual.