- #36
Drakkith
Mentor
- 23,092
- 7,497
sophiecentaur said:The best exposure time is where the brightest object in the frame is near 'FF' and that dictates the faintest nearby object that you will detect. Stacking will give you something like the equivalent of ten times the exposure time without burning out Vega.
Indeed. You can stack to get whatever equivalency you want. And you can also let certain parts of your image burn out if you don't care about the details of whatever is imaging onto those pixels. So we can let Vega burn out in the core if we want and keep right on imaging. This is especially true if your CCD has anti-blooming capability.
sophiecentaur said:Aeroplanes and the like can also be dealt with - sometimes very well if the algorithm is smart enough. A long exposure will just leave you with the plane's streak at around 1/10 brightness which is very visible.
Sigma-clip averaging is also an option. In this case the algorithm looks at those pixels, determines that they are outside a 2-3 sigma range of the average, and simply gets rid of them so they aren't averaged into the final image.
sophiecentaur said:Isn't that best dealt with using 'Flats' (to introduce a further nerdy idea)?
Flats and darks can help, but they still don't get rid of it completely. For small deviations you're usually just fine with flats and darks, but if you have pixels which are significantly off from the norm then you'll usually do well from dithering.
Note that dithering in astrophotography might have a different meaning than in other areas. See https://www.skyandtelescope.com/astronomy-blogs/astrophotography-jerry-lodriguss/why-how-dither-astro-images/ on dithering and why it is used.