How Can I Economically Join 3-Way Corners in Open Boxes Without Screws Crossing?

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  • Thread starter DaveC426913
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In summary, the article discusses economical methods for joining 3-way corners in open boxes without using screws that may cross each other. It explores various techniques such as using dowels, biscuits, or corner brackets to achieve strong connections while maintaining an efficient assembly process. The focus is on ensuring structural integrity and ease of assembly while minimizing costs and avoiding complications from screw placement.
  • #36
Baluncore said:
Get a variable speed drive. That will limit the startup current, or can be programmed for a slower speedup.
Yeah. this is what I was thinking. It's an ancient clunker I picked up at a garage sale. New ones are surely more sophisticated.

The other thing, of course, is that my work shed is powered by a 50ft. extension cord (albeit heavy duty) off the house. I'm prob'ly losing a half a dozen amps there. Really got to get around to burying a proper cable.
 
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  • #37
DaveC426913 said:
The other thing, of course, is that my work shed is powered by a 50ft. extension cord (albeit heavy duty) off the house. I'm prob'ly losing a half a dozen amps there.
Yes, you do need a thicker cable. You will lose volts in the extension, then use a VFD at the far end, to build up the volts again while providing starting amps.
 
  • #38
Baluncore said:
Yes, you do need a thicker cable. You will lose volts in the extension, then use a VFD at the far end, to build up the volts again while providing starting amps.
Volts. I meant volts. Just testing to see if you were paying attention.
 
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Likes DaveE, jack action and Baluncore
  • #39
DaveC426913 said:
The stock is 3/4" nailing strips. Heavily knotted and warped. About as far from standard as one can get. But very cheap.

I try to use jigs when possible. For this, I have angle clamps.
View attachment 349274

A drill with a counter-sink bit, deck screws, and a chop saw.

I really wish I could use my table saw, but it blows my breaker every time I start it up.
Chop saw is handy, better still if it mitres. I too had those clamps, 4 number and just a nobex hand saw. 3/4 is tiny stock for a screw. I note your square end diagram, have you tried mitre joint?
 
  • #40
Housey210 said:
Chop saw is handy, better still if it mitres. I too had those clamps, 4 number and just a nobex hand saw. 3/4 is tiny stock for a screw. I note your square end diagram, have you tried mitre joint?
Yes I hate mitre joints on corners. They never fit, especially at 3/4".


BTW, gotta add this while I've got the ear of some wood workers.

At least twice now I have gone out to my workshed...
  • 8'x10'
  • made of PT fence board over 4x4s
  • shingled roof
  • lots of gaps (deliberate)
  • a window fan
  • and - during the summer - a 7' x 3' screened window)
  • door is open so there;s a cross-breeze
... and built something out of PT wood, I got horribly sick. (Actually, even a few pieces of regular pine that I shaped heavily on the belt sander)

Coughing, fatigue, swollen 'noids. Lasted days. Lays me up, hard to work.

It may have mitigating factors, but at the moment, I'm going with sawdust inhalation .

I have a shop vac attachment on the chop saw and the belt sander has its own bag. I have taken to wearing dust masks. First cheap ones, but I bought some N-95s which are "meant" for sawdust.

Don't know why I'm telling you; I know what I need to do; I need to beef up the the air system with direct hookups to the worst offenders. I can't really justify* a full setup like this:



1722555241059.png


* the reason I'm using 3/4" nailing strips in the first place is to try t keep my hobby as cost-neutral as practical. I don't want it to become a budget drain.
 
  • #41
Glad I retired from it, the smell of some pines, wow. Hardwoods by far iroko the killer. then there are the splinters which fester up over days and draw like hell unless you dig them out. Ended up having my own purpose made joinery business supplying local builders with the likes of doors, windows, stairs and run material such as architectural mouldings. Workhop full of heavy plant, big old wadkins, dominions, three morticers, 4 spindles, planer, thicknesser, tenoner, bandsaw, crosscut trencher,rip saw, panel saw, overhead router, drum sander, most had their own dedicated extractor. For me, air tools was the time saver, nailer, pinners.
 
  • #42
Housey210 said:
...then there are the splinters which fester up over days and draw like hell unless you dig them out.

...most had their own dedicated extractor.
Like, a splinter extractor? :oldbiggrin:

I can see the guy on This Old House having one. He has a machine for everything.

"OK, I've mitre-plane-dovetailed all the boards on my Mitre Plane Dovetailing machine and, oh, I see I've got a splinter. Next, I'll go over to the Splinter Extractor, and insert my hand. (Goggles on, folks!) aaaand there we have it. Ozonol applied and bandage has a little heart sticker on it."

I have a whole stainless steel toolkit in my bathroom for just such problems as splinters. (I'm sure I was a dermatologist in a former life. I binged Sandra Lee, Doctor PimplePopper while she was just a Youtube channel, long before she exploded into popularity with her TV show.)
 
  • #43
Good luck with your project.
 

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