I getting my homemade DC motor to work (school project)

In summary, the student's rotor does not move when energized and he is unsure of why. He is using copper wire for the turns, has wood for the armature and commutator, and has tried using a 9v battery with a clip connector connecting with the brushes but no force is apparent. He would like to know if he needs more turns on the coil or if the hot glue he used to assemble his armature is an issue.
  • #1
hi8192
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Thread moved from the technical forums to the schoolwork forums
hi everyone, i need to build a dc motor for my school project. I have used copper wire for the turns (60 turns), wood to build the structure of the armature and commutator. i have used neodymium magnets as my permanent magnets and paper clips as the brushes. I tried using a 9v battery with a clip connector connecting with the brushes but my rotor does not seem to move. I know there is current passing through because the wires heat up but there is no force. I have sanded off the coating on the copper wire that is looped around the commutator but maybe i have to sand more off? could the hot glue i used to assemble my armature be an issue? do i need more turns? I'm really stressed about this and i would appreciate any suggestions on how i can get it to work. thank you!
here is a photo of my model:
 

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  • #2
There is no force at all on the rotor when energized? The rotor should be a single coil (all the same helicity) and the stator magnets arranged |NS|(rotor)|NS| .
 
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  • #3
hutchphd said:
There is no force at all on the rotor when energized? The rotor should be a single coil (all the same helicity) and the stator magnets arranged |NS|(rotor)|NS| .
yeah there is 0 force, i even tried giving it a kickstart to get it moving but it doesn't seem to work. I'm not sure what you mean by single coil but i have arranged the magnets as you've suggested.
 
  • #4
I mean that the coil has the same helicity all the way across so one end is N and the other S until the electricity is commutated and it switches. The iron core is continuous for stronger magnet.
 
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  • #5
hi8192 said:
... , wood to build the structure of the armature and commutator. ...
What is the coil wound on? An iron or a wooden armature?

The coils look to be wound in the right sense, but I cannot see the cross-over between the coils.

Positively identify the poles of the magnets, mark them clearly with N and S.
Use a magnetic compass, or another magnet, to determine if current flows through the coil when you connect it.
 
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  • #6
Welcome to PF. :smile:

hi8192 said:
I have sanded off the coating on the copper wire that is looped around the commutator but maybe i have to sand more off?

What does that mean? Usually you would solder the two inner ends of the coils to the two pieces of the commutator, not try to make Ohmic contact between the inner ends of the coils and the commutator. Can you post pictures of the motor more disassembled so we can check it? Thanks.
 
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  • #7
Baluncore said:
What is the coil wound on? An iron or a wooden armature?

The coils look to be wound in the right sense, but I cannot see the cross-over between the coils.

Positively identify the poles of the magnets, mark them clearly with N and S.
Use a magnetic compass, or another magnet, to determine if current flows through the coil when you connect it.
i wound them around a wooden armature - i will clarify the magents and assess what you've suggested, thanks!
 
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  • #8
berkeman said:
Welcome to PF. :smile:
That does that mean? Usually you would solder the two inner ends of the coils to the two pieces of the commutator, not try to make Ohmic contact between the inner ends of the coils and the commutator. Can you post pictures of the motor more disassembled so we can check it? Thanks.
the youtube video i was following said to sand off the enamel so i did lmao - i'll post the disassembled pictures in a few hours when i get home
 
  • #9
hi8192 said:
i wound them around a wooden armature
There is your problem. An iron armature is needed.
I wound my first motor with button sewing thread, not copper wire.
 
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  • #10
Baluncore said:
I wound my first motor with button sewing thread, not copper wire.
How did that work out for you...? :smile:
 
  • #11
berkeman said:
How did that work out for you...?
There was no PF at the time, so I had to work it out for myself. It taught me to think and focus, and probably determined my life's trajectory. 15 years later, over morning coffee in the University Science Labs, an electronics tech confirmed he had done the same, after reading the same book. I have often wondered if we were the only two, or what happened to the thousands of others in that position.
 
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  • #12
Baluncore said:
There is your problem. An iron armature is needed.
I wound my first motor with button sewing thread, not copper wire.
oh i hadn't even thought about an iron armature - do u have any ideas how i would make/buy one?
 
  • #13
I would use an iron bolt with the head at one end, and a nut at the other end to balance it.
Perhaps if you gave us a link to the YouTube video, we could do it their way.
 
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  • #14
Baluncore said:
I would use an iron bolt with the head at one end, and a nut at the other end to balance it.
Perhaps if you gave us a link to the YouTube video, we could do it their way.
this is the video i followed
 
  • #15
The bearings at the ends of your motor are high friction. If you use a wooden armature, you will need to drill the ends of the shaft and use a pin or wire as the support. That is shown at 30 seconds in the video. With the bearings you have, you would need an iron armature, or to grease the wooden bearings with margarine. You might also reduce the clearance between the magnets and the coil ends.
From where you are now, it is probably easiest to use the pin bearings that have low friction.
 
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  • #16
Baluncore said:
The bearings at the ends of your motor are high friction. If you use a wooden armature, you will need to drill the ends of the shaft and use a pin or wire as the support. That is shown at 30 seconds in the video. With the bearings you have, you would need an iron armature, or to grease the wooden bearings with margarine. You might also reduce the clearance between the magnets and the coil ends.
From where you are now, it is probably easiest to use the pin bearings that have low friction.
ahh this is very helpful thank you soo muchh - i'll try it out and hopefully it'll work
 
  • #17
Baluncore said:
The bearings at the ends of your motor are high friction. If you use a wooden armature, you will need to drill the ends of the shaft and use a pin or wire as the support. That is shown at 30 seconds in the video. With the bearings you have, you would need an iron armature, or to grease the wooden bearings with margarine. You might also reduce the clearance between the magnets and the coil ends.
From where you are now, it is probably easiest to use the pin bearings that have low friction.
okay so i shortened my dowel and armature to reduce the mass, and used a thinner coil (0.4mm) for the turns (80), i also took your suggestion to use the pin bearings but the motor still isn't working. i'd appreciate any more suggestions you have. here's an updated pic:
 

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  • #18
Have you checked the orientation of your magnets ?
Use a magnetic compass or another magnet to sense the polarity.
You need to reduce the gap between the armature ends and the magnets.
 
  • #19
Baluncore said:
Have you checked the orientation of your magnets ?
Use a magnetic compass or another magnet to sense the polarity.
You need to reduce the gap between the armature ends and the magnets.
the magnets are definitely attracted to each other - i tried determining the exact polarity using the phone compass but it didn't work (kept pointing to west) and i don't have a physical compass so i think ill borrow a magnet from school tomorrow and test it out. i did also reduce the gap but that just led to the magnets being pulled towards each other
 
  • #20
there is a small force! when i give it a jump start, the commutator rotates a bit on its own but it won't continue. i'd upload a video but it won't let me
 
  • #21
A video will NOT help diagnose the problem.
You need to get the magnets closer to the armature, even if you have to hold them down.

Does it spin by hand, or are the bearings not free to turn?

A small toy magnetic compass can be used to test the polarity of the magnets. If you remove the magnets, it can also be used to sense if current is flowing through the wire.
 
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  • #22
Good. I notice that the paperclip brushes are not exactly opposite (180 degrees). For smooth operation both the bushes and the commutator should be opposed by 180 (and offset as suggested). Also if you have extra magnets you could stack two at each stator.
 
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  • #23
i stuck the magnets closer to armature with hot glue and when i gave it a big enough force it actually spun for around 15 secs! I'm going to align the paperclips at 180 degrees as suggested, determine the polarity and hope that it continues to work otherwise i'll buy some more magnets to stack. thank you so much! I'm so relieved
 
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  • #24
I can't be sure from the photograph but is the wire you are using insulated? Sorry if this is telling my grandmother how to suck eggs but I have come across many failed motors that were wound with uninsulated wire. The wire I can see could be just copper or it could be enamelled with a coppery coloured enamel. Then the ends need to be well cleaned of enamel to make a good contact with the 'commutator.
 
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  • #25
Baluncore said:
I wound my first motor with button sewing thread, not copper wire.

berkeman said:
How did that work out for you...? :smile:

This thread, and the exchange quoted above, gave me a strange sense of nostalgia and deja vu. A memory surfaced from my subconscious mind that I had not thought of for nearly 50 years. As a schoolboy I got to read the book "Energy" by Mitchell Wilson, from Time-Life Books. There were instructions on building a paperclip motor, which I tried unsuccessfully to implement.

I just dug up the book on archive.org, https://archive.org/details/energywils00wils/mode/2up

paperclip_motor.png


More recently I helped my niece build a brushless "pulse motor" that worked pretty well. It used a home-made magnetic switch to pulse the current at the right moment during each revolution --

 
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  • #26
Swamp Thing said:
This thread, and the exchange quoted above, gave me a strange sense of nostalgia and deja vu. A memory surfaced from my subconscious mind that I had not thought of for nearly 50 years. As a schoolboy I got to read the book "Energy" by Mitchell Wilson, from Time-Life Books. There were instructions on building a paperclip motor, which I tried unsuccessfully to implement.

I just dug up the book on archive.org, https://archive.org/details/energywils00wils/mode/2up

View attachment 304764

More recently I helped my niece build a brushless "pulse motor" that worked pretty well. It used a home-made magnetic switch to pulse the current at the right moment during each revolution --


Great post. A lot of these kitchen table projects actually require an inherent knowledge of Science and experimental savvy (which even venerable PF members started off without. For instance, a young @Baluncore - bless'im) - or a lot of luck.
 

FAQ: I getting my homemade DC motor to work (school project)

How does a DC motor work?

A DC motor works by converting electrical energy into mechanical energy. This is accomplished through the interaction of a magnetic field and an electric current, which creates a force that causes the motor to rotate.

What materials do I need to make a homemade DC motor?

To make a homemade DC motor, you will need a battery, a magnet, copper wire, a small piece of cardboard, and a paperclip. You may also need some basic tools such as pliers and scissors.

What is the process for building a homemade DC motor?

The basic process for building a homemade DC motor involves creating a coil of wire, attaching it to a battery, and placing it between two magnets. When the current flows through the wire, it creates a magnetic field that interacts with the magnets and causes the motor to rotate.

How can I troubleshoot if my homemade DC motor is not working?

If your homemade DC motor is not working, there are a few things you can check. Make sure all connections are secure and that the wire is properly wound. You can also try using a different battery or adjusting the placement of the magnets. If the motor still does not work, there may be an issue with the materials or construction.

What are some potential applications for homemade DC motors?

Homemade DC motors can be used for various projects and experiments, such as powering small vehicles or creating simple robots. They can also be used to demonstrate the principles of electromagnetism and how electricity can be converted into motion.

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