Is My Samovar Really 110V or 220V? Decoding the Resistance of the Element

In summary, the element in the samovar is likely not a 220V element and would be damaged if used in a 220V outlet. The resistance of the element measured 12 ohms, which is indicative of a 110V element. The on/off switch is a "push button" style that only clicks on if the samovar is plugged in. There is no switch to select between voltage, so the samovar must be plugged into a 220V outlet to work.
  • #1
ER_Doc
4
1
Need some help please. Bought a Samovar (electric water pot) from overseas. Seller told me it is 110V compatible but the base plate not sp clearly says 110v/220V in Russian. Seller tells me that I should not use it in a 220V outlet but when plugged into a 110V it took 45 minutes to boil 8L of water. This is the result I expect if a 220V item is urged into 110v which means it operates st 25% power. So I don't know if Seller is just bluffing me or he is serious that the element is a 110V element which would then be damaged on a 220V outlet.

I disassembled the unit. The resistance measures about 12OHMS. Is this any indication that it is actually 220V and not 110V?

Help please. I'm not an electrician but more of a tinkerer.
 
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  • #2
Welcome to PF.

Assuming that the resistance of the element does not rise when it gets hot.
120 volt, 12 ohms → 10 amps → 1200 watt.
220 volt, 12 ohms → 18.33 amps → 4033 watt.

Are you sure the element has only two terminals ?
If it had three or four, it could be wired for 120 V or 220 V.
 
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  • #3
Baluncore said:
220 volt, 12 ohms → 18.33 amps → 4033 watt.
Even if the samovar can take it, the electrical installation at your home might not be able to take it. 16 Amps is common. I think appliances that go into a wall plug are never more than about 3kw, because it would be too easy for someone to blow a fuse.
 
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  • #4
Baluncore said:
Welcome to PF.

Assuming that the resistance of the element does not rise when it gets hot.
120 volt, 12 ohms → 10 amps → 1200 watt.
220 volt, 12 ohms → 18.33 amps → 4033 watt.

Are you sure the element has only two terminals ?
If it had three or four, it could be wired for 120 V or 220 V.
Thank you for the reply. Only 2 prongs. I checked resistance without unsoldering the element from its wires. This should not affect the measurement should it? The on/off switch is a "push button" style that only clicks on if samovar is plugged in. So I believe circuit should be open during measurement of resistance across the element.
 
  • #5
ER_Doc said:
..the base plate not sp clearly says 110v/220V in Russian.
Could it be the device has a switch to select either voltage?

What is the meaning of "not sp"?
 
  • #6
Lnewqban said:
Could it be the device has a switch to select either voltage?

What is the meaning of "not sp"?
Sorry typo. That's what happens when you write messages in the middle of the night. I realized my bad spelling today. No switch unfortunately. Just one button which turns on boil mode then automatically flips to keep warm mode when water hits 100°C.
 
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  • #7
There should be a wattage or current specified.
Check the rating of the switch and the power plugs.
 
  • #8
20230223_100824.jpg


Here is the base plate and below is a Google translate from Russian. Not sure I necessarily believe the baseplate as the vendor is telling me he checked with the manufacturer and they told him this is a 110V element. But then why does it take 45 min to heat the water? Also....the google translation have to take with a grain of salt as well. Not sure it is 100% accurate.

Household electric samovar ESTZ 3.0/1.0-110/220 GOST 7400,

Model "Bank" voltage 220V 50g Power 1kB
 
  • #9
Deleted, misread.
 

Related to Is My Samovar Really 110V or 220V? Decoding the Resistance of the Element

1. How can I determine if my samovar is 110V or 220V using a multimeter?

To determine the voltage of your samovar, you can measure the resistance of the heating element using a multimeter. First, ensure the samovar is unplugged and cooled down. Set the multimeter to the resistance (ohms) setting, and then measure the resistance across the heating element terminals. Generally, a lower resistance (e.g., around 10-20 ohms) indicates a 110V samovar, while a higher resistance (e.g., around 40-60 ohms) suggests a 220V samovar.

2. What resistance values should I expect for a 110V samovar?

For a 110V samovar, you should expect the resistance of the heating element to be relatively low, typically in the range of 10 to 20 ohms. This lower resistance corresponds to the higher current required for a 110V system to produce the same amount of heat as a 220V system.

3. What resistance values should I expect for a 220V samovar?

For a 220V samovar, the resistance of the heating element will be higher, usually in the range of 40 to 60 ohms. This higher resistance is necessary to limit the current flow in a 220V system, ensuring the heating element produces the correct amount of heat without drawing excessive current.

4. Can I use a 220V samovar in a 110V outlet or vice versa?

Using a 220V samovar in a 110V outlet or a 110V samovar in a 220V outlet is not recommended and can be dangerous. A 220V samovar will not heat properly on a 110V outlet, and a 110V samovar plugged into a 220V outlet may overheat and potentially cause a fire. Always ensure the samovar matches the voltage of the outlet.

5. Are there any visual indicators on the samovar that can help determine its voltage?

Some samovars may have labels or markings indicating their voltage rating, often found near the power cord or on the base of the unit. Look for a sticker or engraving that specifies the voltage (e.g., "110V" or "220V"). If such markings are not present, measuring the resistance of the heating element is the most reliable method to determine the voltage.

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