Ocean waves parallel to the shore

In summary, Huygen's Principle states that every point on a propagating wavefront creates secondary wavelets, which combine to form the overall wavefront. As ocean waves approach the shore and encounter shallow water, their speed decreases and their wavelength decreases as a result. This causes the wavefront to bend towards the normal to the shore, resulting in the waves breaking approximately parallel to the shore. Therefore, Huygen's Principle can be used to explain why ocean waves break parallel to the shore.
  • #1
PhysicsKid99
3
0

Homework Statement


Explain, using Huygen's Principle, why ocean waves break parallel to the shore.

Homework Equations


None

The Attempt at a Solution


Okay, I know that the speed of the waves decreases as the water gets shallower. Therefore, since the frequency is the same, the wavelength decreases. The water is bent towards the normal to the shore, this breaking approximately parallel to it. But how do I bring in Huygen's Principle?
 
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  • #2
PhysicsKid99 said:
The water is bent towards the normal to the shore
Is that correct?

How to explain the wave phenomenon observed?

Huygens's Principle:
every point on a propagating wavefront serves as the source of spherical secondary wavelets, such that the wavefront at some later time is the envelope of these wavelets. If the propagating wave has a frequency, f, and is transmitted through the medium at a speed, v, then the secondary wavelets will have the same frequency and speed.
 
  • #3
PhysicsKid99 said:
The water is bent towards the normal to the shore
Water doesn't bend. Can you express that a bit more accurately?
 

Related to Ocean waves parallel to the shore

1. What causes ocean waves to run parallel to the shore?

Ocean waves parallel to the shore are caused by the interaction between wind, water, and the shape of the ocean floor. As wind blows over the surface of the ocean, it creates ripples that eventually turn into waves. These waves then travel towards the shore and are affected by the shape of the ocean floor, causing them to run parallel to the shore.

2. How do ocean waves parallel to the shore change over time?

The size and shape of ocean waves parallel to the shore can change over time due to various factors such as wind speed and direction, tides, and ocean currents. These changes can also be affected by human activities such as coastal development and climate change.

3. Are ocean waves parallel to the shore dangerous?

Ocean waves parallel to the shore can be dangerous for swimmers and surfers, as they can create strong rip currents and undertows that can pull them out to sea. It is important to always follow safety precautions and be aware of any warnings or advisories before entering the water.

4. How can ocean waves parallel to the shore be measured?

Ocean waves parallel to the shore can be measured using a variety of techniques such as buoys, satellites, and wave measuring devices. These measurements can help scientists study and predict wave patterns and their effects on coastal environments.

5. How do ocean waves parallel to the shore impact the shoreline?

Ocean waves parallel to the shore play a significant role in shaping and changing shorelines. They can erode or deposit sediment, creating beaches and cliffs. They also affect the movement of sand and can cause coastal erosion or accretion, which can impact coastal communities and ecosystems.

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