Rockclimbing Fall Physics: Fall Factor

In summary, the conversation is about fall factors in climbing and the use of a calculator to determine the fall factor and shock in kilo Newtons (kN). The speaker is concerned about the accuracy of the calculator when entering lower values, especially when using aid climbing gear with a low rating of 2 kN. They are seeking confirmation and help in understanding how much they can safely fall on such gear.
  • #1
SnowLurk
2
0
Is there anybody that knows anything about fall factors? I'm a climber trying to learn about the consequences of overloading my gear. Below is a couple of links. One explains what a fall factor is and the other is a calculator that enables you to determine the fall factor and the shock in kilo Newtons (kN). I have played around with the formula and it appears to be flawed when I enter lower values. In the example below, I use 1 foot fall and it would seem impossible that the shock would be 2,000 lbs. Can anybody else confirm this? Please play with it and see for yourself. I occosionally using aid climbing gear that is rated as low as 2 kN. I would like to know how far I can fall on such a small gear item without pushing the limits. Life or death here. LOL


http://www.southeastclimbing.com/faq/faq_fall_factor.htm

http://shockforce.com/


For example if I used variables:

weight = 170 lbs.
Lenght of rope = 1 foot
Distance from last anchor = 1 foot
Type of rope = Dynamic

The output is ??
Fall Factor = 2 severe
Shock= 8.67 kN or 1949 lbs of force (224.81 lbs x 8.67 kN)
 
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  • #2
It is highly unlikely that a fall on 1 foot of rope will generate nearly 2000 lbs of force. It is more likely that the calculator is flawed or that there is an error in the input variables. Please help and let me know if anybody else has looked into this.
 

FAQ: Rockclimbing Fall Physics: Fall Factor

What is a fall factor in rock climbing?

The fall factor in rock climbing is a measure of the severity of a fall. It is calculated by dividing the length of the fall by the length of rope available to absorb the fall. A fall factor of 1 or higher is considered a high fall factor and can result in more force being exerted on the climber and the gear.

How is the fall factor calculated?

The fall factor is calculated by dividing the length of the fall by the length of rope available to absorb the fall. For example, if a climber falls 10 feet and has 5 feet of rope available to absorb the fall, the fall factor would be 2 (10 feet/5 feet = 2).

What is the significance of a high fall factor?

A high fall factor means that more force will be exerted on the climber and the gear during a fall. This can increase the risk of injury or gear failure. Climbers should aim to keep fall factors below 1 to minimize the impact of a fall.

How does the angle of the rope affect the fall factor?

The angle of the rope can affect the fall factor because it determines how much rope is available to absorb the fall. A vertical rope (90 degree angle) will have more rope available to absorb the fall than a horizontal rope (0 degree angle). This means that a fall on a vertical rope will result in a lower fall factor than a fall on a horizontal rope.

How can climbers reduce the fall factor?

Climbers can reduce the fall factor by using longer ropes, placing gear more frequently, and avoiding falls on angled or horizontal sections of a climb. It is also important for climbers to be aware of their surroundings and anticipate potential falls to decrease the risk of a high fall factor.

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