Why does the speed of the water wave decreases as depth decreases?

In summary, the speed of the water wave decreases when it approaches the shallower region because of the frictional force between the water molecules and the seabed. It is also affected by opposing currents.
  • #1
tlfx1996
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Why does the speed of the water wave decreases when the water wave approaches the shallower region? Is it because of the frictional force between the water molecules and the seabed? I have searched the net but i didn't get any clear answer to this questions. Please explain in details of the phenomenon without solely based on the formula, thx.
 
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  • #2
Yes. The friction between the water and the sea bed robs the wave of energy so that it cannot raise up as high.
 
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  • #3
but I still couldn't get a clue how does the change from the orbital movement to the elliptical movement will causes the speed to slow down.
 
  • #4
That's a complex phenomena..as is evidenced by continued failures to prevent erosion...

but there are some good insights here:

http://web.utk.edu/~cnattras/Physics221Spring2013/modules/m11/Water_waves.htm

More here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_waves#Wave_shoaling_and_refraction

I find this second article strange in that they neglect to mention the effects of opposing currents in the very first section but do properly attribute effects of currents in 'shoaling'. I can tell you from long personal experience that opposing current in shoal AND deep water significantly effects wave heights. In fact, current alone usually causes waves to form.
 
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  • #5
Viscosity (essentially friction) would certainly play a part. The other issue that immediately comes to mind is that as waves come to shore and grow, they become nonlinear and end up Rollin over and creatin whitecaps. These will dissipate a fair amount of energy.
 
  • #6
I don't know much about waves, but looking at this GIF from Wikipedia:

220px-Propagation_du_tsunami_en_profondeur_variable.gif


Might it have to do with the fact the wave has to keep the same frequency? I don't know if that's true under certain circumstances. If so, then looking at the GIF it kind of makes sense that the amplitude would rise due to the shallow water. The rise in amplitude would shorten the wavelength, and in order to keep the same frequency, the speed has to slow down.

Don't know if any of what I wrote is true or makes sense...

Edit: Following the Wikipedia article, I reached another article on "wave shoaling". I just skimmed over it, but it seems that the answer would lie somewhere in that term.

I suspect friction is not the prime driver for the reduction in speed...
 

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Related to Why does the speed of the water wave decreases as depth decreases?

1. Why does the speed of water waves decrease as depth decreases?

The speed of water waves is affected by the depth of the water because of a phenomenon called refraction. Refraction is the bending of a wave as it moves from one medium to another. In this case, as water waves move from deeper water to shallower water, they encounter a change in the medium and thus experience refraction, causing their speed to decrease.

2. How does the depth of water affect the speed of water waves?

The depth of water affects the speed of water waves because it determines the amount of refraction that occurs. As waves travel from deeper water to shallower water, the change in the medium causes them to bend and slow down. The shallower the water, the more pronounced this effect is and the greater the decrease in speed.

3. Is the decrease in speed of water waves due to friction?

No, the decrease in speed of water waves as depth decreases is not primarily due to friction. While friction does play a role in reducing the speed of water waves, it is not the main factor. Refraction is the main cause for the decrease in speed, as it occurs due to the change in medium and the resulting bending of the waves.

4. Does the decrease in speed of water waves affect their wavelength?

Yes, the decrease in speed of water waves does affect their wavelength. According to the formula for wave speed, wavelength is inversely proportional to wave speed. This means that as the speed of water waves decreases, their wavelength increases. This can be observed in shallower water, where the wavelength of waves is longer compared to deeper water.

5. Can the speed of water waves be increased in shallower water?

No, the speed of water waves cannot be increased in shallower water. As mentioned before, refraction causes the waves to slow down as they move from deeper water to shallower water. However, the speed of water waves can be increased by changing the medium they are traveling through, such as using a different type of water with a higher density.

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