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Are the petals or leaves wilting? If so, the plants may need water. Some large flowers do cause the stems to bend, as turbo mentioned.arildno said:My garden grows sort of downwards, flowers tilting. Is that normal?
Are the petals or leaves wilting? If so, the plants may need water. Some large flowers do cause the stems to bend, as turbo mentioned.arildno said:My garden grows sort of downwards, flowers tilting. Is that normal?
But they DO get water. Nice, salty, fjord water. Is that wrong?Astronuc said:Are the petals or leaves wilting? If so, the plants may need water.
If it's salty water, then the salt water draws the water out of the plant, unless the plant is of a type that lives in salt water. Some how I doubt that.arildno said:But they DO get water. Nice, salty, fjord water. Is that wrong?
Was it his leg I was holding?turbo-1 said:arildno - let go of his leg! Salty fjord water indeed. No wonder your plants look droopy - you're growing kelp!
I should have said - not too many terrestrial plants are adapted to salt water. There are certainly plenty of marsh plants that are, but the mangroves and mangals are most interesting.turbo-1 said:arildno - let go of his leg! Salty fjord water indeed. No wonder your plants look droopy - you're growing kelp!
My zucchinis and summer squash are of varying length - some new fruit as well as mature. The muture ones are about 8-10" long, and maybe some longer. I pick them one or two at a time.turbo-1 said:We had our first big batch of sweet peas yesterday, and there are tiny string beans everywhere on the bean plants. We're going to get swamped by them. The zucchinis are about 3" long and there are 1" cucumbers everywhere. Our habaneros have not yet blossomed, but there are peppers on all the jalapeno and bell pepper plants. All the prep work this spring (spreading and tilling in 400" of composted manure, 400" of peat moss, and 150" or so of organic fertilizer) is paying off. The garden spot was mostly clay and rock when I started, with a high pH. The previous owner simply planted stuff, and hit them with lime and Miracle Gro and never had the soil tested. It's only $12 for a very detailed analysis from the state lab, and they send back not only the analysis, but recommended application rates for both commercial and organic additives to correct any problems.
I bought a plastic compost bin from the county extension service (only $35), and I may have to get another one. We are getting quite a bit of organic material, with leaves, grass clippings, scraps, weeds, and the volume is not reducing quite as quickly as we are adding to it.Astronuc said:Our soil is mostly clay, and we have amended with composted manure, peat moss, and some organic topsoil. We also make our own compost of grass, oak and maple leaves, and kitchen/table scraps.
We did the same - two bins. But we have more compost than that. I build a couple from wooden pallets, which were free from a local hardware center. One pallet on the bottom and four on each side. This allows for aeration, but the pile still has to be turned. Lot's of interesting critters in there, and earthworms are huge.turbo-1 said:I bought a plastic compost bin from the county extension service (only $35), and I may have to get another one. We are getting quite a bit of organic material, with leaves, grass clippings, scraps, weeds, and the volume is not reducing quite as quickly as we are adding to it.
It's 96°F (35.6°C) here. I'd like to plant some pear trees, or may be cherries is the way to go.turbo-1 said:Speaking of heat, it just hit 95F in the shade and still rising with over 70% humidity. Pretty soon, we'll be able to grow palm trees in Maine. I planted peach, apricot, and plum trees, along with the traditional cold-weather apples and cherries. Perhaps I should have planted mango and banana...
Peaches are tough. This is the first year I got to them in time to get a significant amount (it's a dwarf, don't rememebr the variety, but excellent). I noticed huge ants would show up each year when the fruit were ripe. If I don't pick the peaches within 24 hours of when the ants show up, they will mold.larkspur said:Do any of you grow peaches? I have a three year old Alberta Cling peach tree that had about thirty peaches on it earlier this summer. I just harvested my ripe peaches and I ended up with only six on the tree. The rest of them just fell off before they were anywhere near ripe. Is there anything I can do like fertilize or something the rest of the summer to make the harvest better next year?
There might be a good reason why the fruit fell off. My father has an apple tree that routinely over-produces and drops fruit in the unripe stage. If every apple stayed on that tree every year, it wouldn't survive even a small wind-storm. One year, most of the fruit stayed on, and dad had to brace the limbs with boards and ropes for fear of losing them. My uncle put manure around his plum tree one year and it produced so much fruit that the weight of the fruit caused the tree to split. If you look around at orchards, you'll see that the trees are pruned pretty aggressively, encouraging the growth of a few sturdy branches instead of lots of lighter ones. You may have to prune the tree and give it a bit more time to mature before you get sizable harvests.larkspur said:Do any of you grow peaches? I have a three year old Alberta Cling peach tree that had about thirty peaches on it earlier this summer. I just harvested my ripe peaches and I ended up with only six on the tree. The rest of them just fell off before they were anywhere near ripe. Is there anything I can do like fertilize or something the rest of the summer to make the harvest better next year?
From - http://www.greenwoodnursery.com/page.cfm/5667larkspur said:Do any of you grow peaches? I have a three year old Alberta Cling peach tree that had about thirty peaches on it earlier this summer. I just harvested my ripe peaches and I ended up with only six on the tree. The rest of them just fell off before they were anywhere near ripe. Is there anything I can do like fertilize or something the rest of the summer to make the harvest better next year?
http://www.michiganpeach.org/facts/Peachesculturebackyard.htmApply 1/2 pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer or its equivalent 7 to 10 days after planting and the same amount again 40 days after planting. Broadcast the fertilizer evenly, 8 to 12 inches away from the trunk. In the second and third years after planting, the tree should receive 3/4 pound of 10-10-10 in March and again in May. Mature peach trees (4 to 10 years of age) should receive 1 to 2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer each in March and May. If the tree is vigorous and there are no fruit expected, only the March application is necessary. Broadcast the fertilizer around the outer edge of the tree keeping the trunk area free of fertilizer.
Peach trees need to grow 18 inches of new growth each year. Remove the sod from under the tree, mulch and/or irrigate as needed. Irrigation will increase yield particularly if it is applied three weeks before harvest.
Evo said:Peaches are tough. This is the first year I got to them in time to get a significant amount (it's a dwarf, don't rememebr the variety, but excellent). I noticed huge ants would show up each year when the fruit were ripe. If I don't pick the peaches within 24 hours of when the ants show up, they will mold.
turbo-1 said:There might be a good reason why the fruit fell off. My father has an apple tree that routinely over-produces and drops fruit in the unripe stage. If every apple stayed on that tree every year, it wouldn't survive even a small wind-storm. One year, most of the fruit stayed on, and dad had to brace the limbs with boards and ropes for fear of losing them. My uncle put manure around his plum tree one year and it produced so much fruit that the weight of the fruit caused the tree to split. If you look around at orchards, you'll see that the trees are pruned pretty aggressively, encouraging the growth of a few sturdy branches instead of lots of lighter ones. You may have to prune the tree and give it a bit more time to mature before you get sizable harvests.
Astronuc said:From - http://www.greenwoodnursery.com/page.cfm/5667
http://www.michiganpeach.org/facts/Peachesculturebackyard.htm
http://extension.unh.edu/pubs/HGPubs/growpech.pdf
My father had loquat tree that had variable production, which depended a lot on the weather and irrigation. Make sure the soil is loamy, well drained and irrigate modestly. The number of fruit is determined by the number of flowers. I'd recommend following the instructions in the articles regarding fertilizer, but perhaps use slightly less. As Evo and turbo-1 indicated, one wants to avoid over-production, which can be controlled by removing flowers on the outer ends of the branches.